$25 and Under: Fresh Takes on a Familiar Pleasure
The grill guys here sometimes dance around the flames to the garage-like restaurant's soundtrack. Their enthusiasm is infectious. And why shouldn't it be? This seven-ounce charbroiled chuck burger, with an abundance of black pepper, is as juicy as the restaurant's vibe. Its 20 percent fat ratio helps. A puffy, egg-fortified sesame bun, custom-baked by Pechter's of Brooklyn, is a worthy vessel.
Given this burger's spice and juice, there is no reason to order it house-style, with a blue cheese sauce and bacon ($8.75) that compromise the pleasure. Get it classic cheeseburger-style ($7). Accompaniments of interest include fried artichokes, pickled onions and blistering jalapenos.
The standard fries, curly fries, and especially the onion rings are crisp and munchable. You can go for gut-bust and polish it all off with a surprisingly subtle beer shake (Sam Adams and vanilla ice cream). But you don't need a beer buzz to leave this good-natured place feeling a little giddy.